PAMIR-ALAI

  Pamir-Alai is a high level region which is a part of Pamir. Actually it separates other Pamir regions from Tien-Shan. Pamir-Alai has six disricts - Alai, Gissar, Zeravshan, Turkestan and Karategin. Here there are more then a hundred peaks exceeding 5000 metres above sea level, many glaciers, lakes and unexplored valleys.

  Pamir-Alai mountains are geologically fairly young and result from the Indian sub-continent tectonic plate pushing up against the Asian plate.

When to go
  What makes this area attractive for trekking is the settled weather encountered during the summer months. However, mountain weather is variable, rain (and even snowfall on the passes) could be encountered at any time although this is generally rare and a lightweight waterproof should be adequate.

  In the mountains day temperatures are about 20 C. At night, especially at the highest campsites there might be slight frosts. On the other hand, in towns, afternoon temperatures often rise to above 30 C. A three season sleeping bag should be adequate.

Maps
  Maps adequate for trekking in Pamir Alai mountains can be found in Kyrgyzstan. Far and away the best maps (for both areas) are the Soviet "military" maps (1:100,000 and 1:200,000), available from travel agency. They give a good overview of details, although they contains place names and show the contours - but it requires knowledge of Cyrillic characters. Actually, they do not carry any secret information but if you have any of these maps, be sure to keep them away from the prying eyes of the Russian Border Forces or "KGB" in Tadjikistan who will be happy to relieve you of them.

Guides
  It is well advised to arrange guides and porters before your arrival contacting the travel company. The concept of porters is unknown in the Pamir-Alai, though you can hire donkeys and horses in the villages and shepherds' camps. These are not cheap and you will be asked for $20 per animal per day, plus something for the donkey-man / horseman. In the area of peak Lenin the luggage transportation would cost you around $1-$2 per kilogram. Sometimes it can be difficult to obtain the animals at short notice -so it is best to book them well in advance. People will be bemused if you ask for a guide, but will enthusiastically point the way. Every villager has tales of friends and relatives crossing the passes - to find someone who has actually done it is a far different proposition. While it is certainly the case that most of the passes provided routeways in former generations, the construction of roads in Soviet times, linking the valleys at their lower ends, meant the abandonment of such routes, and the loss of knowledge of their passage. Occasional tumbledown cairns on passes indicate that someone came through here once upon a time, but for the most part you will feel like you are the first.

Permissions
  Planning the trip to Tadjik part of Pamir Alai the one will need a letter of invitation which will allow you to acquire a Tadjik visa on arrival at Dushanbe airport or Tadjik embassy. Once in Dushanbe, you will need to get your visa validated with a separate permission (propusk) for GBAO (Gorno-Badakhshanskaya Avtonomnaya oblast) at the Ministry of Foreign Affairs. Be aware that it can take ten days or if you inform the travel agency in advance it will take them three days.

  Travelling in Kyrgyz part of Pamir Alai you will need a Kyrgyz visa (see Visa and formalities section) and border zone access permission. Visas can be obtained from Kyrgyz Embassies or consulates where they exist or where Kyrgyzstan has no diplomatic representation in Kazakhstan or Russian Federation embassy. You also can pick up visa at the international arrivals lounge at Bishkek Manas international airport. Border zone access permit can be obtained from travel agency. Be aware that it can take some time, so it is well advised to inform travel agency in advance.

Trekking and climbing suggestions
  Trekking and climbing in the Pamir Alai is about as difficult as it gets. You need to be well-equipped and fully independent in terms of supplies. The terrain is tough, and there are no tea-shops or lodges along the way. Once you are above the shepherds' camps you are on your own, and paths are often non-existent. Note the permissions required, as described above. On the other hand, all the treks in that area offer stunning scenery, are highly enjoyable and manageable with a minimum of technical equipment and expertise.

The Zaalaiskiy range
  Trans-Alai range is the northernmost of the Pamir-Alai ridges, it is composed mainly of sedimentary rocks such as limestones and sandstones of the late Devonian and early Carboniferous age that overlie the triassic older rocks to the north. It presents a chain of 6000m summits whose north faces form a dramatic and generally impenetrable wall of ice. Cornices, seracs and avalanches threaten most of the 120km length of the north faces.

  The alleged easiest summit over 7,000m is here, Peak Lenin. The routes in this area are not technically difficult and lie right in the middle of being technical climbing and walk. The routes are mostly consisted of snow and ice. The climate is milder than in the Tien Shan, with an average of 10C in July and August. Also the weather is considered much stable then on other 7000 metre peaks in Kyrgyzstan.

Turkestanskiy Range
  This range's northern faces look over Kyrgyzstan. As a whole little of this region have been explored however the eastern and central area of the northern faces should contain much to interest the mountaineers. The climate is milder than that of the Tien Shan, with annual precipitation ranging from 250 - 400mm p/a (increasing east to west).

  Further to the west there are Ak-Suu and Karavshin valleys which supposed to be paradise for mountaineers. They have some of the most dramatic rock scenery in the former Soviet Union. Central Asia's most famous big wall climbing is here in the southwest of Kyrgyzstan. The giant walls and towers of Ak-Suu and Karavshin rival the rock scenery of Patagonia or El-Capitan in Yosemite but differ with the amount available (a lot more) and the warmer climate. The walls are 2000m high and the rock is granite, limestone and sandstone. There is possibility to re-do technical routes and to make new ascents. This valley can be interested for those who look for new impressions getting while climbing the most difficult big-wall routes in former USSR.

  The area can be reached by car followed by 1 day on foot/horse.

  There are several other canyons and gorges to be explored, with plenty of new routes to be made. Approaches can take 1-2 days on horseback.

Alaskiy Range 
   This range lies in South Kyrgyzstan separating the Fergana Valley from the Alai Valley. The climate is similar to that of the Turkestanskiy Range. The western and southern areas are the only areas of interest to mountaineers. The highest peak in the area, Gandykul, is 5444 metres.

  There is an abundance of rock with walls rising up to 1,500 metres high. The rock is composed of solid limestone, sandstone and granitoides. In the region of Kichik-Alai there are about 80 routes of varying degrees of difficulty. The region is popular due to the easy approach via Osh Town. There is a vast opportunity for putting up new routes in this area. Arrival is possible via car followed by 1-2 days walk/horse ride.

Fann mountains
  The Fann Mountains are a part of the western Pamiro-Alai and are located in the Republic of Tadjikistan between the Zeravshan and Gissar ranges.

  Narrow canyons with clear, rushing rivers, high glaciated summits, a wide variety of colourful panoramas, picturesque river valleys and thousands of lakes set amongst juniper forests make this one of the most attractive mountain regions in Central Asia. Reed more about Fann mountains here.