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FANN MOUNTAINS

  Fanns are considered to be one of the most beautiful mountains in Central Asia. They are known for their picturesque mountainous scenery, but as well as for the great number of nice and clear lakes scattered all over the region. Geographically the Fann Mountains are the part of the Pamir-Alai mountain kingdom and lie in the central part of Tajikistan, one of the former Republics of the USSR.

  The Fann mountains are considered to occupy the highest and most deeply partitioned part of the Zeravshan ridge. Orographically they are the high mountainous watershed between the Zeravshan and Gissar ridges. Formally the Fanns bounded by the river canyons of Pasrud, Fandaria, Iskanderdaria, Sarytag, Karakul, Chatdara, Shing with the Marguzor chain of lakes, Voru, Archamaidan and Urech.

  Narrow canyons with clear, rushing rivers, high glaciated summits, wide variety of colourful panoramas, picturesque river valleys and thousands of lakes set amongst juniper forests make this region one of the most attractive mountain regions in Central Asia.

  Apart from the mountains, Tajikistan is famous for the riotous sense of colour Tajik people have. They love vivid colors, as many as possible. The people are very hospitable and make friends easily. In many small villages hidden in the mountains they still speak ancient Sogdian dialect, the language that Alexander the Great heard when he came to these places. They say that he had been camping on the shores of Iskanderkul lake, and hence it was named after him.

Getting there
Fann mountains can be easily reached from Samarkand town (80 km), but travellers are well advised to contact travel company before getting there on your own.

Climbing and trekking
  The area offers nice wall routes suitable for alpine climbing of average difficulty. The highest part of the Fanns lie to the south of the Kulikalon lakes in Zeravshan area. There are 11 summits exceeding 5000m above sea level. The highest peak is being Mt Chimtarga of 5489m. It's ice-covered rugged summit is almost as high as Elbrus. On all sides Chimtarga is surrounded by dozens of fine peaks: Bodhana 5138m, Maria 4970 m and Mirali 5120 m, Zamok 5070 m, Energia and others.

  The Eastern Fann ridge starts at Energia peak and extends east between the Pasrud and Iskanderdaria rivers. The high, but relatively short, Western Fann ridge starts at Mirali peak and stretches between the Voruh and Urech rivers to end not far from the Artush river. The main Fann ridges are built up of metamorphosed limestones and the secondary ridges of soft shales.

  The geology of the Fann mountains influences the main relief forms: the rounded slopes of the shale ridges are covered by turf and extensive screes are found in the upper reaches of rivers, at the foot of ridges and on the lower passes. Limestone walls rise high above the valleys, the rock is particularly steep on south faces, where the often vertical cliffs have few crack systems. Glaciers and permanent snow lies above about 3400 m., particularly on the gentler, northern slopes.

Climate
  The climate of the Fann mountains area is a dry continental one further accentuated by the screening effect of the surrounding high ridges from the moist westerly and north-westerly winds. The annual precipitation is about 260mm. the wettest month being April. At the Alaudin and Kulikalon lakes, which are sheltered from the west winds by high ridges, precipitation is much less than in the upper reaches of the Arg river. The lower flow of Pasrud, Fandaria, and Lake Iskanderkul are considered arid zones.

  In the Fann valleys the climate is moderately warm, the average valley temperature in July is +15 to +20 centigrade. Between June and October the weather is normally dry and warm. The nights at 2500m. are also relatively warm. Winters are mild but long, the average valley temperature in January is -5 to -7 C. Over 3000m above sea level the climate is cold and even during the 5 warmest months the average monthly temperature rarely rising higher than -1 +10 C. Snowfalls are possible.

  In the November-May period the mountain slopes are dangerous on account of the possibility of avalanches and most of the passes are practically impassable.

Lakes
  There are about 30 lakes in the Fann mountains of moraine-glacial and landslide origin. The largest one is Iskander Lake (area is 3.4 sq. km., maximum depth 72m.), it is surrounded by rocky mountains and set at the altitude of 2209m. The lake owes its origin to a huge landslide which created a dam across the Iskanderdaria river. The name of the lake is related with the Alexander the Great (Iskander is the Persian name for Alexander) who used to visited this places.

  The Iskanderdaria river flows out of the lake by way of a magnificent waterfall almost 40m, high. Narrow terraces on the lake shore suggest much higher levels of water in the past. The highest of these lies 117m. above the present water level. The water is cold even during the hottest days. Some fish can be found in it. The lake is surrounded by brushwood of dog-rose, wild cherry etc.

  In the upper flow of Urech river lie the picturesque Kulikalon lakes. They are of moraine-glacial origin. The main one, set at 2800m, is named Kulikalon (which means 'Big Lake' in Tajik language), it is the second largest lake in the Fann. Malyi (Small) Kulikalon is next to the Bolshoi (big) lake. The water in the Malyi lake is warmer than that in the others and it is possible to swim in it. The Kulikalon waters filter out through moraine soils and give birth to Urech river. The highest of the Kulikalon lakes, Dyushakha, lies at 3000m., at the foot of the icy north face of Mirali peak.

  On the way from the Archamaidan valley to Kulikalon lakes one comes across three small lakes. The biggest of these is the Chukurak twin-lake. Water from the higher lake cascades into the lower, smaller one. Not far from Chukurak lake there is the small Beloe (white) lake, its surface is always covered with water-lilies making it unique in the Fann. 1.5 km. away from Beloye lies the small Ziorat lake.

  The beautifully colored Alaudin lakes are located at 2700m. in the upper flow of Chandara river, amongst the highest and most dramatic peaks of the Fann mountains. The main lakes: Chapdara or Bolshoye (Big), Sredneye (Middle), Vostochnoye (Eastern), and Nizhneye (Lower) are connected to each other by the Chandara river which tumbles in several small waterfalls from one lake into the next. In its upper reaches the Chandara river often completely vanishes underground. At the head of the Chandara Valley lies the bleak but magnificently located Mutnye (Murky) lake, fed by the melt waters of glaciers flowing from Energia and Chimtarga.

  In the upper Zindon valley are located the Vierkhny Allo and Bolshoi Allo lakes. The latter was formed geologically recently by a huge landslide which covered the ancient moraine. Water from Bolshoi Allo lake seeps under the landslide for 5 kms. before coming to the surface as the Zindon river. Pack animals are unable to go above Bolshoye Allo, and above an altitude of 3300m. one enters a virtual desert of rock and snow.

Guides and donkeys
  In most of the major villages in the valleys around the Fann Mountains it is possible to hire donkeys or mules together with handlers. As the animals are required in the daily lives of the local Tajiks it is sometimes difficult to obtain them at short notice - it is best to book them well in advance. Local people will not carry luggage as porters.

  The mule handlers might not have a good knowledge of areas remote of their villages, so do not really expect an exact information giving by word of mouth. In particular they are unlikely to know much about the mountains or about the routes up to harder passes.

  The guides can be easily organised through a travel agency.

Accommodation and food
  In the mountains very little accommodation is available. There is a fairly cheap, run-down hotel in Penjikent which may or may not have water. The Mountain Lodges, such as Artuch and Iskanderkul, are reasonably priced and have basic huts with beds and linen provided, there are twin-bedded and larger rooms available. Restaurant service is of a poor quality. Advance booking is advisable but not essential. In the mountains themselves tents are essential. There are plenty of good campsites and the water quality is generally excellent.
Bread, vegetables and some fruits may be bought in the towns and villages around the mountains. A wider variety of food is available in the cities but it is difficult to find. Expeditions are advised to bring in as much food as possible and in particular tinned meats or dehydrated meals, chocolates, biscuits etc. It is possible to purchase a goat in the mountains which the locals will prepare. Travel agent will organise basic food supplies for you in advance if required.

Countryside and traditions
  The majority of the Tajik population, including the Fann mountain region, live in kishlaks (a type of rural settlement). Kishlaks in the mountains differ substantially from those of the plains. Kishlaks in the plains are large (200-700 households), while the mountainous ones, lying in narrow valleys or on slopes, are smaller and do not consist of more than 15-20 households. Many houses in the kishlaks on the slopes of the Fann mountains are located one above the other, and due to the lack of land, the roof of the lower building is used as the yard of the upper house. Due to the lack of good timber, roofs are flat, also high sloping roofs are not necessary here because of low precipitation.

  Quite typical for the Fann mountains in summer are numerous seasonal shepherds' camps, grazing sheep and goats on the high meadows. Tajiks are very hospitable and often treat tourists to tea, home-made bread and dairy products.

  The inhabitants of Kishlaks, particularly in the mountainous regions, have retained folk clothes. Female costumes consists of long, white or colored cotton or silk, dresses and wide trousers tied at the ankles. They often wear tubeteika (small hats) and large white muslin or silk scarves. They decorate themselves with beads and coin and coral necklaces. The men's costume usually consists of a shirt, wide trousers, robe, waist-scarf and tubeteika.

  Tajik families are usually big and 5-6 children in the family are quite normal.

  Local diet is traditional. Bread is made as flat cakes and is served with shurpo (meat soup), pasta and sour milk. The favourite meal is plov, this consists of rice, meat and vegetables cooked in vegetable oil or sheep fat. The main drink is green tea. Dry fruit, sweets and bread are served with tea.

  Be very careful when taking photographs - some locals find this very offensive or intrusive, particularly the women.

Fauna
  The formerly rich fauna of the Fann mountains is becoming poorer the encroachment of shepherds and tourists. The formerly numerous snow leopard has almost vanished, they can now only be found high in the mountains and only go down for water and to hunt. Very rarely lynx can be found in the forests. On the higher grassy mountain sides it is possible to occasionally see a mountain goat -teck or sheep-dokhar. There are still many rabbits, wolves, bears, foxes, stoats and marmots and wild boars are encountered in canyons.

  Bird life is better preserved here and includes mountain geese-ukhar, pigeons, eagles and hawks. In the summer, ducks stay at the lakes.

  There are some venomous insects and reptiles but these are not numerous. Scorpion bites are not dangerous but very painful. Snakes live only in the lower reaches of valley.

Check the price for trekking in Fann mountains here.