MUZTAGH ATA PEAK 7546 m.

  Muztagh Ata (7546 m.) is the second highest peak of Pamir mountain system. It is the huge snow mountain-mass which raises above the Karakul Lake attracting climbers from all over the world. The name means something like: "Father of Ice mountains". Muztagh Ata is one of those mountains which is perfect for skiing down from the top. First attempts to summit Muztagh-Ata peak were made in 1894 by Swedish geographer Sven Hedin from the West. He tried twice but maximum he could reach was 6300 m. In 1947 a party of British climbers: E. Shipton and H. Tilman together with sirdar Gyalzen Sherpa reached the point at about 7000 m. Finally the first historic ascent of the Muztagh-Ata was done in 1956 by Soviet-China expedition led by Eugene Beletsky by the route outlined by Sven Hedin. The route does not pose serious technical difficulties on its 25-30 degrees slopes and may suit freshmen or not very competent mountaineers.

  To get to there take a plane to Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan. Here you will have to hire a car or bus from travel agency as some part of the road goes along the border zone, and border guard pass only those drivers with pre arranged pass issued by Ministry of internal affairs in Bishkek. Also in Bishkek you will have to arrange the car from Chinese side which will bring you to BC. So you hired a car and drive to the city of Naryn - an overnight stop on the Bishkek - Kashgar road over Torugart pass. Next day you will have to start really early in order to get to the border before midday. Be aware that border and customer procedures might take a time. After you pass thru all this routine they will let you drive in Kyrgyz trucks a few km more thru no man's land to official Chinese border. Here you should be met by Chinese agent (whom you arranged before), change the trucks and drive another 168 km to Kashgar. In Kashgar there is a final shopping for fresh vegetables. From here drive 200km to Subash, by a part of Karakarum highway. Next step is to load camels and trek (3 h) to BC.

Climbing Muztag Ata

  From Base Camp ( 4450 m ) to Camp 1 at 5200 m. Trek along a good path to the edge of a rocky ridge. Often there is a lot of snow on the ridge above 5000m and for this reason it is best to go as a larger team. Behind a small campsite at 4800 m the ascent can be continued on skies in a large snow couloir on the right.

  From Camp 1 at 5200m to Camp 2 at 6200 m. This section is on sloping snow. Go up along a snow field to a small plateau at 5400m. Then turn left to a snow/ice rib. Follow left side of the rib up to the altitude of 5600m. Here there are a lot of large crevasses. This walk can be easy, with snow melted out and crevasses visible, or it can be a hell day of breaking trail and searching for a safe path. It is always wise to use standard glacier travel precautions and rope up on this section as some of the "holes" can reach the center of the earth. Falling to one of them the one will probably melt out only in next millennium or even later. Cross the zone following a big snow gully in its middle part and then continue up to a steep snow slope up to a wide snow ridge on altitude close to 6000m. Turn left and go along the ridge to a small snow trough on 6200m.
From Camp 2 at 6200m to Camp 3 at 6800 m. Go up by the right slope of the trough and then up a wide, gentle snow fields with several slopes.
From Camp 3 at 6800m to the Summit (7546m) The summit day is what it is really all about, all the preparation, the hauling gear, the cold toes, everything comes down to this. It is a really long day from the camp 3 to the summit and often people do not quite make it to the summit. The route is mostly about 40-45 degrees. It goes up by the wide snow slopes.

  Take the same route down. In general the route lies right in the middle of being a technical climb and a walk-up. Technical skills are helpful because you can save energy, but none of the sections would pose difficulty if you are in good shape. Being in good condition and giving yourself enough time to acclimatise are the most important factors.

  For equipment on this day going as light as possible is the best option, a harness, couple of carabineers, figure 8, perhaps a short section of rope if you are in a group, an ascender, and one ice ax and that is it. The summit day you of course should start early and not stop moving. Down low is the place not to waste time as minutes usually become valuable at the end of the day. So much depends on weather, on how much snow there is, if there is a trail or if you are breaking trail that it is really hard to give an estimate on how long the whole trip takes from pass to summit and return. But an average time would be 12-14 hours for the round trip.

The standard climb of Muztagh Ata (Classic) goes something like this:

  If all goes well the entire trip can be accomplished in 3 weeks, but notice in the itinerary there are no spare days for bad weather or party members needing additional rest days. Three and a half weeks is considered normal, a month is not excessive.

Gear
Individual members must bring
1. all climbing hardware, rope, cooking equipment, lightweight tent and the main as well as personal 'travellers' first aid kit (headaches, diahorrea, minor cuts, blisters etc).
2. Sleeping bag (expedition or '5 season' quality)
3. closed-cell foam sleeping mat and/or Thermarest
4. rigid mountaineering boots (plastic double boots strongly recommended)
5. thermal underwear, fleece shirt or similar, fleece jacket & pants
6. extra fleece top or light duvet, Goretex jacket and salopettes (or pants)
7. mountain mitts/gloves, hat or balaclava, gaiters
8. ice axe, crampons (preferably with anti-ball plate)
9. helmet, harness, 3 locking carabiners, belay plate or fig. 8, jumar or ascender
10. long sling (120cm), 3 prussik loops, headtorch with spare batteries,
11. climbing rucksack (60-80 litre), second sac or kitbag,
12. glacier glasses, sun protection cream and lipsalve, water bottle,
13. mug, bowl, spoon, shorts, sunhat, lightweight "trekking" boots, trekking poles

If you ski
1. Skis with touring bindings,
2. Skins and ski crampons,

  For a stove the Coleman or Primus gas stoves are by far the best. Gas cartridges can be found in Bishkek. The petrol here is really bad. Gas stove can be lighted up inside the tent in any time then to light up petrol stove you will need to go outside.

Check the price for Muztagh Ata peak classic package here

Have a great climb!