Zarya Vostoka (6349 m) is meeting point of Kyrgyzstan, Tadjikistan and China borders. It is located in the Zaalayski Range in the area between the Hindu Kush and the Tien Shan called Pamir-Alai. There is no exact information then the peak was first time climbed since there is no report system in Kyrgyzstan, some sources say in 1982, the others more reliable says it happened in August of 2000 by Russians - participants of Kyrgyzstan expedition. To get there take a plane to Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan and then take car or a plane again to the ancient city of Osh by the south-west end of Ferghana valley. From there hire a four-wheel drive taxi for the 6-7 hour (300km) drive over a 3800m pass to Alai valley. From village Sary-Tash take a left turn and drive east to camp site at 3600m in Kyzyl Suu valley.

  There are no commercial camps in the area unless you asked for one. It could be a good idea to ask your tour operator to set the base camp to provide the climbers with good food and hospitality, tents to stay in, food to be eaten, saunas to be taken and vodka to be consumed. As a rule base camps usually have mess tents, sauna and bar as well as living tents and satellite phones. Guides and porters are available from the company and you are well advised to arrange them before your trip.

Climbing Zarya Vostoka peak
  At present days there are three routes, 2 were pioneered by Russians and 1 by EWP expedition in 2001. Russian routes: One of them start from Kyzyl Suu glacier and follows N.E. rib (seen on the photo), then at a height of 5900 traverses left to the summit. Another Russian route was pioneered from Nura glacier which is placed in next (left) ravine from Kyzyl Suu valley. They climbed a saddle west of 5995 peak and then by the summit ridge to the top. The difficulties they met there are 3 steep sections with cornices. The route discovered by EWP expedition goes from pass placed in Kyzyl Suu glacier circus and then up the North Face of Zarya Vostoka. Often there is a lot of snow on the approach and for this reason it is best to go as a larger team. Here we describe Russian route by N.E. rib from Kyzyl Suu glacier.

  To climb Zarya Vostoka your trip starts in Bishkek, you can fly directly to Bishkek, or be picked up in Almaty and drive the two hours to Bishkek. From Bishkek it is 40 minutes fly or a 10-12 hour drive (600 km) to the city of Osh over the passes. There are hotels and guest houses to stay in there. Same day is a final shopping trip for final vegetables at famous oriental Osh market. Next day long drive over a pass to base camp. The base camp is at 3600m so one day of acclimatisation is needed after arrival.

  Your next step is to set up a tent at ABC (4100 m) on a glacier moraine, about a 4-5 hour walk from base camp. ABC is placed on a moraine that is near the approach up the rib to Korumdy peak and Zarya Vostoka, so you can climb both peaks using same ABC. Water is plentiful here.

  To Camp one at 5400 m cross the glacier and go up thru the icefall to the slopes of Zarya Vostoka, then behind the icefall traverse left to the rock outcroppings which are the beginning of the ridge and go up. This section is prone to avalanches so it is well advised to start this day as early as possible. Russians used only one camp and fixed the ropes on some rocky section of the rib. The steepest parts of the approach to camp 1 are on this section. After your first run up here to get acclimatised a good vodka drunk and sauna is next back at base camp. It seems like a waste to run all the way back to camp, but for summit success it is the best strategy.

  The summit day is what it is really all about, all the preparation, the hauling gear, the cold toes, everything comes down to this. It is a really long day from the camp 1 to the summit and often people do not quite make it to the summit. The route is mostly about 35-40 degrees.
Take the same route down.

  Technical skills are helpful because you can save energy, but none of the sections would pose difficulty if you are in good shape. Being in good condition and giving yourself enough time to acclimatize are the most important factors.

  For equipment on this day going as light as possible is the best option, a harness, couple of carabineers, figure 8, perhaps a short section of rope if you are in a group, an ascender, and one ice ax and that is it. When climbing, try to use the fixed rope for balance only. On the way down do not slide with velocity of light. The summit day you of course should start early and not stop moving. Down low is the place not to waste time as minutes usually become valuable at the end of the day. So much depends on weather, on how much snow there is, if there is a trail or if you are breaking trail that it is really hard to give an estimate on how long the whole trip takes to summit and return. But an average time would be 10-13 hours for the round trip. The ABC can be reached in one day from the camp at 5400.

The standard climb of Korumdy peak (classic) goes something like this:

  If all goes well the entire trip can be accomplished in two weeks, but notice in the itinerary there are no spare days for bad weather or party members needing additional rest days. Three weeks is considered normal, a month is not excessive.

Gear
  As for gear, it is hard to say you need anything when there are Russians climbing the peak with leather boots and Adidas windbreakers. But in general Individual members must bring
1. all climbing hardware, rope, cooking equipment, lightweight tent and the main as well as personal 'travellers' first aid kit (headaches, diahorrea, minor cuts, blisters etc).
2. Sleeping bag (expedition or '5 season' quality)
3. closed-cell foam sleeping mat and/or Thermarest
4. rigid mountaineering boots (plastic double boots strongly recommended)
5. thermal underwear, fleece shirt or similar, fleece jacket & pants
6. extra fleece top or light duvet, Goretex jacket and salopettes (or pants)
7. mountain mitts/gloves, hat or balaclava, gaiters
8. ice axe, crampons (preferably with anti-ball plate)
9. helmet, harness, 3 locking carabiners, belay plate or fig. 8
10. long sling (120cm), 3 prussik loops, headtorch with spare batteries,
11. climbing rucksack (60-80 litre), second sac or kitbag,
12. glacier glasses, sun protection cream and lipsalve, water bottle,
13. mug, bowl, spoon, shorts, sunhat, lightweight 'trekking' boots, trekking poles

  But do not overdress, this is not K2 or Everest and not even as cold as Denali. 8000-meter equipment will be too hot. For a stove the Coleman or Primus gas stoves are by far the best. The petrol here is really bad. Gas stove can be lighted up inside the tent in any time then to light up petrol stove you will need to go outside.

Check the price for Classic package here

Have a great climb!